Getting to Machu Picchu was less adventurous, quicker, and far more expensive last time I was here eight years ago. But I had a job then.
Funemployed this time around, I bypassed the pricey train that whisks tourists to Aguas Calientes, the tacky town at the bottom of the archaelogical site, and did it the fun way.
It started in Arequipa
I’d spent a few days there, trekking Colca Canyon (the world’s 2nd deepest!) and enjoying Chelawasi, a craft beer mecca owned by a Timbers fan that I unexpectedly, but happily, found. A speeding overnight bus got me to Cusco sleepless, but an hour and a half earlier than my ticket said, which was a plus.
But, elections were that day meaning two things:
- They couldn’t serve beer at Chelawasi because of the dry law in effect that weekend, hence my last visit was disappointing.
- A lack of transport options upon arrival in Cusco (since people were voting; it’s mandatory here), leading to higher prices.
At least the colectivo left shortly after I arrived and the driver was nice. I even had a working seatbelt! A significant bonus and as rare as finding a dirt lot without massive amounts of garbage in Peru.
Busting through the Sacred Valley at a good, but reasonably safe, clip, I got to Santa María four hours later (40 soles). I got on another colectivo to Santa Teresa (45 minutes; 10 soles), there, and, after an hour wait and a quick stop at the mercado, one final colectivo to Hidroeléctrica (5 soles), which I shared with a young German couple. From there, I split from the Deustchland duo because I walk with a purpose, and got to Aguas Calientes about an hour 45 minutes later.
I arrived at the polished little pueblo (it’s literally like Main Street at Disneyland, with prices to match!) tired from the long day. However, I was happy I took the fun route and relieved I found a great private with cable (this has come into play lately with Copa America & Euro 2016) at Hostal Las Rocas for about $12 USD.
Super excited to be there again, I bought my ticket for Machu Picchu, devoured some beef hearts from the street and enjoyed the Mexico game before calling it a night.
After a 3 am wake up call for the first day at Colca Canyon, and a 4 am alarm for the 2nd day, getting to sleep in until 4:45 am before hiking my way up to the highest point at Machu Picchu was fantastic.
Because I’m ballin’ on a budget, I passed on the most expensive bus in South America (mile-for-mile. 12 USD each way!) and crushed the trail to the entrance. Eventually I made it to the trailhead to Machu Picchu mountain after a brief delay at the site etnry gate.
The masses soon vanished behind me. I’m not sure where they went, but I didn’t mind it at all. The thick fog slowly revealed the old rocks while llamas grazed and the few sounds you could hear were the wind and the birds. And the buses slowly making their way up the mountain.
When the trailhead opened (on time at 7 am. Bravo, staff!) I was 7th to sign in. This is something you do so often while traveling that I’ve memorized both of my passport numbers and have listed a wide array of occupations, with teacher, astronomer, astronaut, and taxi driver being my go-tos.
I made it to the top in 40 minutes. It wasn’t a race, but I am glad I got there first and claimed my spot on a perfectly placed rock with my keffiyeh and backpack.
The payoff was a memorable 20 minutes, up in the clouds, overlooking one of the seven wonders of the world, with only the sound of wind, birds, and my heartbeat keeping me company. A beautiful, unforgettable way to start a Monday.
Once the barbarian hordes arrived and the serenity of the site turned into a cacophony of complaints about the cloud cover ruining selfies, I threw on my earphones, ate breakfast, and wrote postcards.
Patience isn’t my strong suit, but having been to Machu Picchu before, I wasn’t in a rush to head down. The three hours I waited were worth it, as the cloud cover slowly cleared, revealing the Incan icon left to right in a moment that had me smiling ear-to-ear. And still has that effect as I type this.
After enjoying things for a few minutes, I lucked out when I asked a fellow tourist to take a picture. He didn’t fail me, framing things nearly perfectly, unlike dozens upon dozens of DSLR camera-toting tourists that have, with their shitty shots at some point during my trip. Thank you, stranger! Gold star for you.
Once I hit the bottom of the trail and signed out, I head to Incawasi, the Sun Gate, where most Inca trail trips enter the site. It has a pretty stunning view as well. A couple complimented my peppy pace, which was appreciated. I walk with a purpose. Ain’t nobody got time to lollygag!
A little lunch near the main site was next, followed by some meandering through said place for another hour before booking it all the way to the bottom, as I wanted to climb Putucusi, the mountain across the river. I climbed Putucusi, a sacred Inca mmountain, when I’d been there last time and it was an awesome hike with huge ladders along the way getting you past 90 degree faces.
Sadly, I rushed down and passed up an opportunity to see the little-visited Machu Picchu museum for nothing.
Putucusi was in disrepair, closed to the public, but I tried anyhow. However, when I reached the first ladder it was no longer there, making it impossible to continue the climb without significant risk, which I wasn’t willing to take. It was sad to see such a cool trail killed off, so when I got back to Aguas Calientes, I talked to the Peru tourism people and lodged my complaint.
Due to tourists trying to hike it in the rain and getting injured (idiots!), it’s been shuttered for about 16 months. The hope is that they will reopen the trail in the next two years, but will likely charge for access at that point. Unsurprising, really, as they now charge for the priivilege of climbing Machu Picchu mountain and Huayna Picchu, too, which sells out months in advance.
I got going early the next day, hiking to Hidroelectrica, catching a car to Santa Marta and hopping off before getting to Cusco to make my way to Cachora, where I’d rent some camping equipment and hike a little used (and free! no permit or guide required) Inca Trail to get to Choquequirao, a sister city to Machu Picchu.
It would be one of the most physically and mentally challenging treks of my life.
